Breeding Angelfish

Angelfish Tank Set-Up

When setting up an aquarium to house your angelfish pair, remember that this is one fish where a tall aquarium must be considered for reasons other than aesthetics. It is not uncommon for properly cared for veil angelfish to reach 12 inches or more from the top of the dorsal to the tip of the anal fin. If a breeding angelfish pair is cramped, they may not feel secure. So, make sure you give them plenty of room. We recommend a 20-gallon "high" as the smallest aquarium to house a pair.

Angelfish need to feel secure in order to do well and to breed freely. Their natural environment is one of slow moving water that has many hiding places such as roots and tall plants. Although, gravel is not recommended in the breeding set-up, potted plants and/or cured driftwood is fine. If the angelfish spawn on the plants or driftwood, remove these items until they spawn on the desired medium - spawning slate or MAG slate. After the angelfish pair has had a spawn or two on a spawning slate, they will usually continue to use the slate, even after you put the plants back in.

Many angelfish pairs will need nothing special done to their aquarium, but others will not spawn unless careful thought is given to the aquarium set-up. With bare bottom aquariums it sometimes helps to paint the outside bottom of the tank a "matte" dark color. This cuts down on reflection and usually makes an angelfish pair feel more at ease. You may have to do this to a couple of the sides also. With some pairs, you may have to try covering the whole aquarium, try a bigger aquarium, or maybe turning off a light will work. Some angelfish pairs may require a dither fish to distract them or make them bolder. The key is experimentation.

Angelfish cannot handle high concentrations of nitrites and ammonia. A good filtration system will help to eliminate these toxins. To establish the nitrogen cycle you should start with an "active sponge filter", or you should add a quality cycling aid. Active sponge filter do work much better than any cycling aid. The active filter contains a full range of micro-organisms necessary for a completely balanced tank.  Cycling aids containa a few species of bacteria and are no where near complete.  We find simple aquarium sponge filters to be the most cost efficient. They also do not cause much turbulence, which is good when dealing with angelfish. One or two large sponge filters will handle most fish bio-loads.

We prefer our sponge filters. Fry cannot get trapped under them and they are easy to move around when siphoning. Particulate matter will be removed primarily by the large and frequent water changes you are doing. It is best not to rely on filters to remove particulate matter because you are not actually removing it with a filter, just storing it all in one spot. Alternately cleaning (gently rinsing) one of the two sponge filters (every few weeks) will keep the water crystal clear. Remember to rinse the sponge filter in aquarium waste water or dechlorinated tap water. The chlorine in most tap water may kill most of the beneficial bacteria the sponge filter contains. Other filters we've had success with include, undergravel filters, fluidized bed filters and whole-tank custom sponge filters.  Outside power filters and canister filters are not only unnecessary, but they swirl the water too much, cost a lot, are a pain to clean, tend to leak and don't work any better if even as well as a good sponge filter of appropriate size.

Frequent, partial water changes will remove excess dissolved organics and other toxins that will accumulate without them. Water changes must be done in large amounts if you are to be successful at breeding angelfish. Angels seem to thrive with 40% or greater water changes done as frequently as possible, even daily. You will probably not have much success with breeding angelfish if you can't change at least 30% once a week. 

next>>
Breeding: 1 2 3 4 5 6