Brine Shrimp Eggs Our Premium Grade 90% hatch-out amounts to 250,000+. NPG (nauplii per gram). Brine shrimp egg hatch-out can vary greatly, even from harvests collected in the same season, from the same location. For this reason, we carefully test batches of brine shrimp eggs before buying the product. We only purchase the highest quality product available from the Great Salt Lake, to offer our customers. Some years produce a higher quality product than others, and some collectors get luckier on the quality of their harvest. We test the brine shrimp eggs with our own fish and evaluate their effectiveness at obtaining good growth levels without problems. This assures that you will always receive the best brine shrimp eggs we're able to obtain.If you do not see a box with Tabs below it means your display is too small for this feature to work. For this additional information you should view this on a device with a larger display.
A good hatch will depend on a few important criteria, and at the prices of eggs, getting the best hatch you can, will save you substantial amounts of money.
First, pH in the hatching container should be over 8.0 during the full hatching time. Many people's water will have the pH fall drastically during the hatch-out, so you should test it after 24 hours of incubating the eggs. You can use some epsom salt and some pH Fixit 8.3 to get it where you need it.
Second, salinity should generally be high. 1.023 to 1.030 on a hydrometer is the range you should try for. Some eggs will hatch better in different salinities than others. Measuring tablespoons per liter doesn't work. You need a hydrometer to get this right. After you have determined the correct amount of salt for that type of salt, you can use a measuring cup to get the salt correct.
Third, temperature should be approximately 80 degrees F. If the container is too hot, the shrimp will not hatch as well and it will die easily. If it's too cold, then hatch-out times can be delayed and hatch-out percentages will fall. It is best to keep the hatching containers in a temperature controlled room or box. Below is an example of a hatching box that uses low wattage bulbs to control the temperature. Temperature can be varied by using different watt bulbs and putting a door on if the room is too cold. The bulb in this box is a 7 watt fluorescent. The second photo show the hatch-out of our typical Premium-Grade with the bulb turned on.
Enough aeration is necessary to keep all the cysts suspended. Any that remain on the bottom will not hatch. When artemia hatch, they consist of mostly a yolk sac. As the hours go by, the artemia consume the yolk sac to stay alive and in the process they become less nutritious. Also, as time goes by, dangerous bacteria will grow on the shrimp. Eventually it becomes dangerous to feed. For these reasons, artemia should be fed as soon after it hatches as possible. It should not be stored for future feedings. Hatch only enough at one time to feed all the fish at that feeding. Then restart the hatchery with fresh water, salt, and cysts. Clean the hatching container very thoroughly before starting the next hatch-out.
To harvest, remove aeration and let the hatched artemia settle to the bottom. Then siphon this out through a brine shrimp sieve, rinse with fresh water into a feeding container and then feed using an eyedropper or turkey baster.
Learn more about feeding artemia in these articles.
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